In the heart of the Sierra de las Nieves, specifically in Istán, lies Raíces, a culinary project led by chef José Miguel Marín. This establishment, which opened in September 2020, stands out for its gastronomic offering that goes beyond technique, focusing on the memory and flavors of the chef's childhood.
Marín has created a space where his grandmother's spoon dishes and the flavors of inland Málaga, often lost from current menus, take center stage. Raíces was born as an emotional return, deeply connecting with the environment and local pantry to reinterpret traditional Malagueñan cuisine from a contemporary perspective.
The restaurant's philosophy is encapsulated in its name: Raíces (Roots). This personal connection of José Miguel Marín with Istán, the town where he spent part of his childhood, is the driving force behind a project firmly rooted in the territory. After training and gaining experience in establishments like Villa Padierna and Back (with chef David Oliva), the chef chose this Málaga municipality to realize his vision.
The menu at Raíces delves into culinary tradition, starting with emblematic dishes from the chef's childhood such as gazpachuelo, chícharos (peas), lentils, or slow-cooked potatoes. Marín applies contemporary technical processes and long preparations to enhance recognizable flavors, aiming to evoke the feeling of "eating at my mother's house," as he himself describes.
The restaurant also stands out for its strong advocacy of local produce and game cuisine, championing ingredients from inland Málaga such as Málaga goat, wild boar, deer, carob, and figs. Dishes like wild boar ribs with quince puree or venison loin with mushrooms reflect this commitment to reviving flavors from the mountain regions.
Among its most unique creations is the avocado torrija, a dessert that reinterprets a Spanish classic with a creamy avocado center, accompanied by salted caramel ice cream and local chestnut honey. Other offerings such as goat cheese and pistachio cake or the Istán zahína (a type of porridge) maintain the connection between local produce, tradition, and creativity.
