During the III Mediterranean Economic and Social Forum, held at CosmoCaixa, chef Ferran Adrià, alongside chefs Begoña Rodrigo and Najat Kaanache, participated in a panel titled 'Mediterranean Gastronomy: Culture, Territory, and Value Economy'. The discussion, moderated by Pau Arenós, focused on the definition and existence of a unified Mediterranean cuisine and diet.
Adrià raised questions about the geographical boundaries of Mediterranean cuisine, pondering where to draw the line given the region's diverse products and historical influences. He pointed out that Spain produces truffles and the Guadalquivir river has had caviar, making a strict definition difficult.
Begoña Rodrigo and Najat Kaanache agreed that multiple Mediterranean cuisines exist, despite sharing a similar pantry. Rodrigo highlighted culinary differences even within the same region, such as between Valencia and Alicante. Kaanache added that grandmothers from Turkey, Greece, or Morocco cook differently.
Olive oil was identified by Adrià as the only 100% Mediterranean product found in all countries bordering the sea, referencing ancient civilizations to support his argument. He denounced what he called 'terrible manipulation' in gastronomy, citing examples like croquettes and Russian salad as popular Spanish tapas of French and Russian origin, respectively.
Addressing the concept of the 'Mediterranean diet', Adrià stated unequivocally: "The Mediterranean diet is fine as 'marketing' but it doesn't exist." He used the example of current consumption in Mediterranean households, where guacamole is more popular than 'escalivada', highlighting the gap between tradition and contemporary eating habits.
